Belle Maison

European plaice from Loctudy, brill from Le Guilvinec, hake from Saint-Jean-de-Luz… The carefully sourced seafood at Franck Baranger’s (Le Pantruche, Caillebotte) restaurant makes eyes at ocean lovers. To a backdrop of bleu-blanc-bois décor by Emilie-Bonaventure, the day we went for lunch, his Belle Maison was a real treat: cod rillettes intensified with lime (€8); crab cannelloni with daikon and ginger (€13); n°3 spéciale Irish oysters from Boutrais (€22 for 6); his famous hake that was a little overcooked but sumptuously paired with a tangy buttermilk condiment, plus black olive powder and a duo of cooked and raw fennel (€20); then an orgasmic cylinder of crunchy almonds, vanilla ice cream and mousse, inundated with melted chocolate – an absolutely deadly treat (€9)! Wine whites dominate the menu, of course – an Aligoté from the Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron (€7 a glass), a Montlouis-sur-Loire, Rémus, from La Taille aux Loups (€8), a Saint-Péray from Villard (€40 a bottle) or a Bâtard-Montrachet from Morey-Coffinet to max out your card (€290) – but there are still a few fearless reds, including the famous Morgon from Foillard (€35). Dish of the day €14. Set menu €23 (weekday lunch), à la carte €30-54. // G.D.