The latest bambino from the Big Mamma gang (East Mamma, Ober Mamma…), this Italian caffè has professed its love to the gluten-free crowd. Behind the incredible Rose Bakery Marais glass façade, the mustachioed and aproned transalpine staff are busy at work in the long dining room with small leather benches and an épicerie feel (shelves filled with jars, ham and mortadella). Here, just like at its older brothers East and Ober, you’ll find a long line outside, and the same mamma-mmmesque stars inside: truffled pasta, pizzas, ricotta with honey…. In addition to a whole bunch of brunch-style dishes at lunch, served nonstop. Tested during our last lunch there: Eggs & Balls (stuffed peppers; runny eggs, mozza and pork-beef polpettes) that were more spectacular than they were legendary; a generous “Brunch Flunch Crunch” pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven, without gluten, but with fior di latte, a runny egg and pancetta; or even “kickass” pancakes made even fluffier by the addition of creamy ricotta on top, drizzled in maple syrup, chocolate or caramel. And to drink, raise a glass Italian style with a sparkling prosecco col fondo (€8 a glass), a red Sangiovese (€5) or a Muscat spritz with Lambrusco and crème de poire (€10). // C.V.