Right near the Cirque d’Hiver, you’ll find Biondi (named after a famous Argentine clown), a gaucho asado joint from Fernando de Tomaso (ex-Pulperia). He overheats his barbecue in this well-ventilated space (old stone walls, open kitchen, wooden tables, post-industrial lamps), beloved by rich meat-eaters and the rest of us… The proof can be found at lunch, with the €15.50 menu! The day we went: a delicate beef anticucho (marinated skewers) with roasted sunchokes, fine cod accras with a Kalamata olive mayo dipping sauce; excellent ham confit with roasted cauliflower, a rich jus served with salad and fries – or flash-seared mackerel with a clam jus and creamy polenta; before simple caramelized hazelnuts with a yogurt ice cream and dulce de leche. At night, the prices climb and the appetizers get more sophisticated (foie gras cooked over embers for €20, ceviche for €15) and the meats get royal (sirloin, rib eye or beef fillet, from €28 to €36), served with hand-cut fries, chimichurri sauce, salad, shallots confit and manioc chips. To drink, it’s all clean: a Mâcon-Villages from the Domaine Valette (€8 a glass) or a Pinot noir from the Bodega Chacra in Patagonia (€8 a glass), or a Malbec from the Bodega Familia Cecchin (€40 a bottle). Set menu €15.50 (weekday lunch), à la carte €42-66. // O.J.