Bistro S

Bistro S (Paris)

© Stivan Klein

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Bistro “S”: is that “s” as in… “stylish”? Antonio Arnes Spinoza, a numismatist specialized in Ancient Greece, takes the utmost care at this little gem of a restaurant that combines light wood, camel-toned moleskin leather and industrial light fixtures. Meanwhile, Japanese chef Shimpei Oie (ex-Bistro Volnay) perfects retro-modernist bistro classics. The day we went for lunch: a moussey onion velouté sprinkled with croutons and served in a very “nouvelle cuisine”-style shallow plate; a dome of warm pâté filled with an explosive veal and foie gras stuffing, doused in an incredible jus and pan-fried bok choy; before a very 2003 dessert of fresh fromage blanc sorbet with slices of citrus and cubes of pineapple and mango for added color. The four-course menu served at both lunch and dinner is worst exploring – eg.: pork trotter and black curry croquettes with chanterelle mushrooms and tartare sauce; lamb saddle prepared two ways with eggplant purée and crisp vegetables; smoked Albacore tuna with black risotto and a mushroom emulsion… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? “S” as in “sans sulfites”? There’s Muscadet from Jo Landron (€7 a glass), a Loire Chardonnay from the Domaine de l’Ecu (€34 a bottle), a Morgon from the Jean Foillard estate (€58)…

PRICE: There’s a lunchtime set menu for €22, desserts €7-9, menu €40 (5 courses). At night, there are menus at €38 and €55 (6 courses).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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