Bistro S

Bistro S (Paris)

© Stivan Klein

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Bistro “S”: is that “s” as in… “stylish”? Antonio Arnes Spinoza, a numismatist specialized in Ancient Greece, takes the utmost care at this little gem of a restaurant that combines light wood, camel-toned moleskin leather and industrial light fixtures. Meanwhile, Japanese chef Shimpei Oie (ex-Bistro Volnay) perfects retro-modernist bistro classics. The day we went for lunch: a moussey onion velouté sprinkled with croutons and served in a very “nouvelle cuisine”-style shallow plate; a dome of warm pâté filled with an explosive veal and foie gras stuffing, doused in an incredible jus and pan-fried bok choy; before a very 2003 dessert of fresh fromage blanc sorbet with slices of citrus and cubes of pineapple and mango for added color. The four-course menu served at both lunch and dinner is worst exploring – eg.: pork trotter and black curry croquettes with chanterelle mushrooms and tartare sauce; lamb saddle prepared two ways with eggplant purée and crisp vegetables; smoked Albacore tuna with black risotto and a mushroom emulsion… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? “S” as in “sans sulfites”? There’s Muscadet from Jo Landron (€7 a glass), a Loire Chardonnay from the Domaine de l’Ecu (€34 a bottle), a Morgon from the Jean Foillard estate (€58)…

PRICE: There’s a lunchtime set menu for €22, desserts €7-9, menu €40 (5 courses). At night, there are menus at €38 and €55 (6 courses).

Late-night munchies?

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