Bistrot Paul Bert
The years go by and yet success has never ruined Bertrand Auboyneau’s first bistro. His secret? The moody feel of the place (woodwork, zinc, mosaic tiles and spotted mirrors) and the food, of course: a splendid prime rib with homemade fries and béarnaise sauce for two (€75); a good steak with Sarawak pepper, calibrated like a 12 mm (€34); an inimitable Paris-Brest (€10) …. Classics that you can order blindfolded, unlike the menu of the day that’s not always as reliable… The day we went, on the €19 lunch menu: green asparagus, an addictive tarragon cream and a runny egg for the radiant appetizer, but then pork filet mignon with flavorless thyme and bland mashed potatoes, right before a superb floating island. And to wash it all down? A beautiful natural wine selection: Vin Rouge from Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf that goes down easy (€6 a glass) or a grandiose Muscadet Gaïa from Bretaudeau (€54 a bottle). Menu: €19 (weekday lunch) and €41, à la carte €40-60. // G.LeP.