Bistrot Paul Bert
Bertrand Auboyneau’s flagship spot still has its old-fashioned charm (a shiny zinc bar, old mirrors, woodwork, ceramics) and stirs up gluttonous feelings with its €19 lunch menu. The day we went, there was some beautiful and classic fare: crisp zucchini and Parmesan; firm whiting fillet with a lemony butter sauce and spinach; before an apple crisp surrounded by a caramel sauce that had us weak in the knees. Otherwise, the €41 menu and the à la carte selection are on another level: pork cromesquis with tartar sauce; fattened hen cooked in Savagnin with homemade mashed potatoes; brill from Le Guilvinec and sautéed chanterelles; an incredible Paris-Brest… The incontestable strong suit of the house? The natural and biodynamic wine selection: a refined Muscadet from Jérôme Bretaudeau (€6 a glass), a spicy red L’Elémentaire from the Domaine Gramenon (€36 a bottle), a magnificent Bourgueil, Les Perrières, from Catherine and Pierre Breton (€58), a respectable white Anjou from Stéphane Erissé (€50). Menus €19 (weekday lunch) and €41, à la carte €50. // O.J.