Bistrot Paul Bert
Is Bertrand Auboyneau’s unbeatable motherhouse a hotspot for tourists seeking out the real Parisian experience? In any case, they’ve found it: authentic decor (ceramics, white tablecloths, busy servers), a menu that’s just as lively as ever, and bottles of wine that will give you a healthy flush. So, seated alongside them, let’s treat ourselves to lamb offal with girolle mushrooms, sautéed octopus with lemon confit, Corrèze veal liver with thyme and celery purée, brill from Le Guilvinec with beurre blanc and fresh spinach, Grand Marnier soufflés and floating islands with pralines…. And don’t forget about the lovely suggestions of the moment, like the runny omelet with a panful of the first porcini mushrooms of the season; very generous veal sweetbreads, grilled on top and pink inside, served with mushrooms in a cream sauce; or a thick steak with a Sarawak peppercorn sauce and homemade fries. There are almost too many good wines to choose from to wash it all down, served by the glass (Côtes-du-Rhône blanc from the Vignerons d’Estézargues for €5), by the bottle (Anjou rouge from Mosse for €35) or in magnums (Rhône La Mémé from Gramenon for €115). At lunch (except on Saturdays) they serve an unbeatable set menu for €19. Menu €41. À la carte €40-70. // H.S.P.