After 10 years of friendship, Julian Gouverd (the owner of BarBizier) and Sébastien Henry (ex-chef at L’Hostellerie de Levernois) made over an old Beaune inn and turned it into their Biz’tro (an ornate bar, rough wooden tables, vintage leather chairs, a shady terrace…). The day we went for lunch, the locavore chef sent forth a very delicious menu: a refreshing salmorejo (a chilled Andalusian soup) with tomatoes grown by his padre, plus coppa and olive oil; a meaty rump steak from the Ferme de Clavisy, served with fries and beetroot ketchup – or trout in a smoked emulsion, paired with lentils, diced haddock, watercress and a cucumber condiment; before a very gourmet Burgundy ratafia soufflé. FYI: there’s also a four-course Burgundy menu (oeuf en meurette, beef bourguignon, cheese platter, soufflé…). // J.R.
FEELING THIRSTY? A long list of natural wines that are very Burgundy-centric, like a Santenay En Charron from the Domaine Bachey-Legros (€42 a bottle) or a Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune red from the Domaine Charles (€33)… and so much more: a Sancerre from the Domaine Riffault (€55), a Saint-Joseph from Sylvain Gauthier (€50).
PRICE: Menu €28, Burgundy menu €37, à la carte €43-77.