Eastward bound! And we’re focused on Blitz, the new café near Square Gardette owned by Charleli Frati (La Jaja). With an intimidating name (“lightning” in German), but welcoming and none too flashy décor (light wood tables, blue and white ceramics, an open kitchen), their family-style cuisine casts a very wide net from Central Europe to the Near East, with a detour through North Africa along the way. The day we went for lunch, washed down with a glass of white Menetou-Salon from the Domaine de Loye (€6), there were some delicious hints of the Jewish diaspora: Ashkenazi-style chopped chicken liver with onions and eggs (€10); lightly spiced shakshouka baked to perfection (€14); before malabi for dessert, a type of Lebanese orange blossom and pistachio panna cotta (€7). The cuisine is simple, fresh and really catches the eye: crispy potato latkes (€7), kofta (€9) or schnitzel from distant Austria (€14), etc. To drink, there’s a surprisingly French and rather unadventurous wine selection: Côtes-du-Rhône from the Château Beauchêne (€34 a bottle) or a white Languedoc from La Maison Ventenac (€25). Lunch: “Blitz Plate” set menu for €12, with dessert for €16. À la carte: €23-39. // P.-H.B.