Every star in Thierry Costes’ galaxy shines like a world unto itself. On the upper deck of Thoumieux, decorated by India Mahdavi like a baroque safari, the amazing menus from Sylvestre Wahid have a tendency to break the bank. On the ground floor, in the Hall-of-Mirrors-style brasserie (red velvet benches, meringue-like mouldings, Roaring Twenties light fixtures), slender beauties who look like they belong in a Wes Anderson film savor neo-brasserie fare. The day we went, on the €35 lunch menu: chilled carrot and citrus velouté topped with a handful or arugula; spellbinding duck leg in a light confit lacquered with a rich jus, with grilled lettuce hearts and a cherry and long peppercorn compote; before a vanilla-pistachio fraisier. To drink, there’s a white Sancerre from Pascal Reverdy (€10 a glass), a red Chinon from the Domaine Bernard Baudry (€42 a bottle), or a red Côtes-du-Roussillon from the Domaine Danjou-Banessy (€60). Set menu €35 (weekday lunch), à la carte €49-80. Brunch €48 (Sunday). // M.J.-D.