Everything is for the best at the Thierry Costes-owned Thoumieux: Sylvestre Wahid aims to impress upstairs in the fine dining restaurant, while on the ground floor, the Roaring Twenties-style brasserie designed by India Mahdavi (crimson velvet banquettes, a suite of mirrors, frosted globe light fixture) delights with neo-bistro cuisine by the same chef. And the former protégé of Thierry Marx sure knows how to keep his chic hen house happy! The day we went for lunch, the large prix-fixe menu put on a fine performance: a beautiful “crazy” salad of quinoa, kale and radish petals; tender lamb shoulder remastered as a crispy pastilla with mint; before a flavorful brownie sprinkled with fleur de sel, caught in a storm of peanut mousse with freshly made vanilla ice cream. Available à la carte: escargot de Bourgogne, braised beef cheeks, bluefin tuna mi-cuit in a sesame crust, iced raspberry nougat… And there’s brunch on Sundays, with fruit juices, eggs (scrambled, poached, boiled, Benedict or meurette) and a seasonal sweet and savory buffet. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? Full-bodied juices: a Chinon red from the Domaine de Pallus (€10 a glass), Cahors from Cosse and Maisonneuve (€54 a bottle), Prédilection, a Pouilly-Fumé from Jonathan and Didier Pabiot (€120 a bottle)…
PRICE: Menus €29-35 (lunch), à la carte €49-80, brunch €48 (Sunday, €20 for kids).