Bricktop (Paris)

© Patrick Abdel Sater

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At this pale green-tiled, post-industrial oratory blessed by the holy waters of the Canal Saint-Martin, they spread the good “pizzanism” word. And what’s more, the dough is rested according to the gospel of Saint Enzo! Having received holy orders from pope Enzo Coccia, the star pizzaiolo of La Notizia in Naples, Wayne Lockhart (ex-Richer and PNY) raises bright red, vinyl-sized rounds with plump crusts in his wood-fired oven. The other night, we shared communion around a communal table under pale neon lights, indulging in a delicious #1 topped with tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil (€7); a perfect #5 with melted stracciatella and small yellow tomatoes (€11.50); plus a diabolical #8 made with smoked mozzarella, pork sausage and caramelized onions (€12.50). It also goes down easy with a BapBap pale ale (€5.50 for 330 ml), an organic Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine des Espiers (€5 a chalice, €24 a bottle) or homemade lemonade for the abstinent (€3.50 a glass). Pizzas from €7 to €14.50, sides from €4.50 to €9.50, desserts from €5.50 to €8. // A.A.

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