Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
When the Au Passage team decided to open up a falsely-authentic retro bistro (a red bar, Formica furtiture, moleskin benches, tiled floors), praise started flowing in for Buffet! Now open only at night, the spot owned by Audrey Jarry and Jean-Charles Buffet (no, it’s not a joke!) relies a lot on the good plates cooked up by chef Jose Maria Moura Neves. The night we went: simple radishes paired with a peanut cream that’ll make your mouth drop; crispy yet tender eggplant tempura; a seasonal chestnut and fennel velouté with sautéed sweet tooth mushrooms; pan-fried hake steak (a little over cooked) with roasted baby carrots, guanciale and a salsa verde made of anchovies, capers, garlic and hake roe cooked sous-vide; a firm slice of pork tenderized by sweet potatoes in a perfect jus with watercress; before a beautiful pear poached in red wine with crumble and whipped cream for the sweet finale. // O.J.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a superb natural wine selection: La Levée 2013, an oxidative Loire white from Alexandre Bain (€9 a glass); an Arbois white from the Domaine Fumey-Chatelain (€39 a bottle); Biau 2012, a Coteaux-du-Giennois red from Mathieu Coste (€38 a bottle); or even Susucaru, an Etna rosé from Franck Cornelissen (€45 a bottle).
PRICE: À la carte €35-48.