Buffet (Paris)

© Thomas Pirel

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Tiled floors, Formica tables, moleskin leather benches… In this convincingly authentic retro bistro, Audrey Jarry and Jean-Charles Buffet (who also runs Au Passage) bring a little cheeky flair to the Roquette neighborhood, in keeping with the taste of the times. Need proof? Well, they went and recruited Le Grand Bain’s former star chef, Edward Delling Williams, back in September 2020. He had everyone in good spirits the night we went: prized Cantabrian anchovies marinated in olive oil; impeccable roasted eggplant sprinkled with smoked ricotta and sage chips; tender roasted butternut squash with an herbed yogurt sauce, sumac and purslane; delicious octopus carpaccio with raw, lemony zucchini; before a refreshing melon soup seasoned with olive oil. // D.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines from France and elsewhere: an Alsatian Riesling from Vincent Fleith (€7 a glass), a white Burgundy from Alexandre Bain (€40), a Sicilian rosé from Franck Cornelissen (€45), an Umbrian red from Conestabile della Staffa (€40 a liter)…

PRICE: Plates €6-18.

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