When a brilliant restaurateur (who already owns Au Passage) is fortunate enough to be called Monsieur Buffet, it would be a shame not to name a restaurant after himself. So that’s what’s written out in golden letters on the window display of this former dive, with plenty of Formica, old porcelain dishes, chrome and gingham tablecloths. You’ll find the same French flair in the kitchen with the talented Australian chef Chris Edwards, who recites his magical €19 set menu every day at lunch. The other day: a meaty terrine de campagne with a pear and grape compote, rabbit rillettes or celery remoulade to start. Followed by a juicy steak with diced bone marrow and homemade fries, or sausage with lentils (overcooked, unfortunately); before a chocolate-chestnut lava cake with dark chocolate ice cream for dessert…. At night, the extra-small menu zips around France: an incredible jellied egg (€5); lamb and prune parmentier (€14); an intense hazelnut cake (€6), etc. And there’s plenty of fruity flavors in the glasses as well: Ancienne Cordonnerie, a Hérault white from Jolie Rousse (€5.50), or Le Comte Goûte, an Alsace red from the Domaine Julien Meyer (€30 a bottle) Set menu option €16.50 to €19 at lunch. Count on spending €25-35 at dinner. // M.J.-D.