Buron De Cap Combattut

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In the middle of nowhere, Maïté Tichet’s stone buron house with granite walls and a pinewood frame watches over the Aubrac plateau like a sentinel. Seated in one of the two dining rooms (the first has communal tables, the second has a more intimate feel) or on the terrace, let yourself be terroir-ized by the charcuterie and cuts of beef from the family farm. The day we went for lunch, the €28 menu featured: a lovely écir (a raw cow’s milk cheese) and coppa combo; a memorable rump steak served bloody and paired with some outstanding retortillat – sautéed potatoes, garlic, fresh tomme and Cantal cheeses; before a generous cheese platter (three milk tomme, Laguiole, Thérondels, Saint-Nectaire) and a divine apricot clafoutis. FYI: the house also serves farm-fresh ice creams and homemade pastries into the late afternoon. // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic beer from the Brasserie d’Olt (€11.50 for 750 ml), ordinary wines served by the glass (Fitou or Lirac, €3.50), and a few more obscure bottles, including a Macabeu/Chenin Cuvée 78 (€29) or a Faugères red from the Domaine Ollier-Taillefert (€24).

PRICE: Menus €22-28, kids’ menu €10.

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