The importance of being Constant when squeezing one’s big chef’s toque into this little troquet joint (tiled floors, ornate zinc, golden mouldings, bistro chairs) can’t be underestimated! The tutelary godfather of bistronomy pulls out all the stops at his favorite playground on rue Saint-Dominique. Hidden in the details, his infectious love of the craft can be found even in the €27 menu. The day we went: beetroot carpaccio with button mushrooms; rich and tender salmon with steamed potatoes and sorrel; before a sunny apricot-almond tart with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. The à la carte menu also puts on its finery: beef stew; Basque veal prime rib with beans cooked in goose fat; baba au rhum with aged rum, etc. And to drink, there’s a Mâcon-Lugny from Bouchard Père & Fils (€6.50 a glass), a red Côtes-du-Rhône, Terre des Galets, from the Domaine Richaud (€39 a bottle), or a Fleurie, Le Pré Roi, from the Château de Poncié (€33). Set menus €21-27 (weekday lunch), €37. À la carte €39-48. // M.J.-D.