Café de la Nouvelle Mairie
This natural wine outpost was revitalized by Nicolas Carmarans (who currently works as a winemaker) in 1994, then taken over by Benjamin Fourty and Corentin Bucillat in 2007, and if you were playing Parisian bistro bingo, it would be the winning combo: seats bunched together on the terrace, mosaic tiles, bottles displayed on the walls and an imposing tin bar. On the blackboard menu, everything seems to be in place as well, with a string of classics prepared exactly how we like them: deviled eggs (€6); leeks in vinaigrette with clams (€8); smoked herring with marinated red cabbage salad (€8.50)… And notably for us, the night we went: a sacrosanct slice of chicken liver, grape and Armagnac terrine (€8.50); mouthwatering braised pork ribs with crisp, vinegary beans (€17); before a small chocolate pudding topped with fresh raspberries (€7). Pair it all with the best small producer wines in the country: a white Loire from La Grange aux Belles (€6 a glass), a Sicilian Guarini from Aldo Viola (€10), an Alsatian Pinot noir from the Domaine Rietsch (€30 a bottle), etc. A special mention as well for the pretty selection of craft beers: Lug Savoyard from the Voirons (€16 for 750 ml), La Pigeonnelle from the Loire (€6 for 330 ml), a Parisian L’Etre (€7 for 330 ml), etc. À la carte from €30.50 to €48.50. // C.V.