Brought to you by the radiant Inès de Villeneuve, alias Ineko, this long café with a Balearic-Berlin look by designer François Champsaur (a big glass roof, whitewashed wood, chairs everywhere) now has thirtysomething chef Manon Negretti (ex-Semilla) in control of the kitchen. On this September day, for lunch we ate: watermelon soup topped with feta and miniature basil leaves (€7); Lozère lamb shoulder served with a special mix of roasted vegetables and a tasty jus de viande (€19); before a poached pear topped with outstanding milk chocolate whipped cream (€8). Otherwise, at any time of day, dig into one of the desserts made with heirloom flours, which are displayed on the bar: banana bread, cookies and scones (€4). And to drink, there’s an Alsace-grand-cru Riesling from the Domaine Hering (€6 a glass), a Saumur-Puy-Notre-Dame from the Manoir de la Tête Rouge (€25 a bottle), and hot or cold infusions from the Herboristerie du Palais-Royal (€5). FYI: the boutique corner sells fine foods and tableware, and “dineko” evenings are announced on Instagram. À la carte €27-38. // J.G.