The Noisette family is getting bigger! At the extreme southwestern part of Paris, Thierry Blanqui (Le Beurre Noisette) is doubling down with a new spot (brick walls, rough columns, tomette tiles, hardwood floors) that’s overrun with commuting workers at lunch – blue ling fillet and sautéed spinach (€14), pork belly and creamy mashed potatoes (€13), etc. At night, it becomes more of a tapas joint: artichoke hummus topped with fried onions (€7); whelks with shallots and mayo (€7); duck pâté en croûte (€10); escargot cromesquis (€10); duck hearts lacquered with Picon and lime (€10); boudin noir ravioli in a delicious broth (€6); crème brûlée topped with homemade strawberry ice cream (€7); or even rice pudding with salted caramel (€6). And to go with all of that, there’s a beautiful selection of organic wines: a white Bergerac from the Château Tour des Gendres (€6 a glass), a Gaillac, Braucol, from Plageoles (€35 a bottle), a Marsannay red from Jean Fournier (€45)…. Tapas €4-12 (dinner), à la carte €22-33. // T.M.