A marbled bar, a glass cake dome, fifties-era benches and light fixtures, a chic crowd… It feels like the Café de Flore of the faubourgs in this sophisticated corner bistro, expertly run by Marion Trama. Come for an apéritif while nibbling on the like’s of farm-fresh sheep’s milk tomme cheese carpaccio with truffles (€11), and popping open primarily natural wines selected by Paul Hayat, who founded the wine magazine Le Rouge et le Blanc: a Pic-Saint-Loup from Le Mas Foulaquier (€9 a glass), Véjade, a Tavel from Pfifferling (€42 a bottle) or Le Clou 34, a Bourgogne from Claire Naudin (€40)… Or, for more serious matters, take a seat for a proper meal, like we did at lunch: a sexy ceviche of mullet from Oléron in coconut milk and lime (€11); crispy veal sweetbreads with hazelnuts and trofie (€34); and a magical lemon pudding topped with crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside meringue (€10). And don’t forget about their addictive croque monsieur sandwiches made on Poujauran bread with ham from Gilles Verot and truffled salt (€18). À la carte €35-61. // R.deC.