Vintage posters, graphic floors, frosted light fixtures… A little taste of déjà vu? Not in the 7th arrondissement that’s for sure, as Café Varenne stands out from all the other bistros! The proof came once again the day we went for lunch, thanks to a menu with a simple, delicate homemade feel: humble and gourmet ravioli du Royans promoting the Dauphiné province (€11); an excellent duo of anchovies from Collioure, served two ways (salted and in vinegar, €9.50); a silky steak tartare with plenty of chives, parsley and aniseed (€19); speck ravioli (€18.50); and an overly affectionate rice pudding dotted with raisins and almonds (€9) – or a baba au rhum with Haitian rum (€9). To drink, there are good, surprise-free wines: a fruity Saint-Véran from Pierre Desroches (€7.50 a glass) or a flattering Morgon from Jean-Paul Thévenet (€39 a bottle). À la carte €34-51. // T.M.