The interior of the legendary Stern engraver’s printing house is now decked out with Venetian masks, Padoue glassware, Cordoue leather and a stuffed fox. This caffè with nineteenth-century alcoves dreamt up by Philippe Starck for the Alajmo brothers (Le Calandre in Padoue) and David Lanher (Racines des Prés, Le Bon Saint Pourçain) sure brings some prestige back to the Passage des Panoramas. At night, the grand seigneur cooks up a (slight) concession to peasant budgets with its €38 set menu. For us: a golden quartet of cicchetti – a majestic pork croquette, an anachronistic egg stuffed with cream of tuna, a mouthful of chicken ragout, roasted pigeon thigh; opulent spaghetti with calamari, cream of eggplant and basil; before a courtesan-inspired dessert of bergamot sorbet with candied peel, served in a silver dish. At night, dinner rolls out in menus with anywhere from two to eight courses (from €65 to €120). And for the passionate libations: a white Pecorino Valle del Sol (€8 a glass), a red Barbera-d’Alba from Paola Massa (€11) or an elegant Chianti Val delle Corti (€50 a bottle). Breakfast set menu €12-24 (from 8:30 am to 11am), sweet and savory tea time €26 (from 3pm to 6pm), menus €32-38 (lunch), €65-120 (dinner). // A.A.