It’s pure Italian showmanship at this luxurious trattoria located inside a former engraving studio now classified as a historic monument, that’s been given a Venetian baroque makeover by Philippe Starck himself! Teamed up with David Lanher (Racines, Le Bon Saint Pourçain), brothers Raffaele and Massimiliano Alajmo (the owner and chef at Le Calandre in Italy) send out heavenly dishes, executed alla grande by Denis Mattiuzzi: stupefying steamed pizza with cream of lobster, raw langoustines, shrimp and Daurenki Tsar Impérial caviar from Petrossian; potato cappuccino over a delicate ragout alla bolognese; delicious tagliatelle in a pistachio sauce with seafood; and an unbelievable raw but breaded steak, served with a radish and beetroot salad; before, for the royal dessert, a stunning homemade chocolate hazelnut cup – or a more unusual cherry soup with Gorgonzola ice cream! And to celebrate: Negroamaro from Natalino del Prete (€9 a glass) or a Timorasso Derthona from Vigneti Massa (€45 a bottle). Menus €32-38 (lunch) and €95-150 (lunch and dinner), set menus €65-95; from 8:30am to 11am, breakfast menus €12-24; from 3pm to 6pm, sweet-savory teatime €26 (€32 with a glass of prosecco). // Y.G.