FYI! Eating in this barebones dive designed by Boot Café’s Phil Euell (unfinished walls, shabby hardwood floors, rickety barstools, a windowed kitchen) is likely to cause some serious psychedelic effects! Korean rock-star chef Esu Lee (ex-Passerini) has a menu that provokes an irregular heartbeat, hallucinations and night sweats… In order of appearance: a palpitating langoustine tartare with roe, nori, enoki, and langoustine jus (€16); thunderous fried daikon fritters with a Sichuan pepper sauce (€16); incredible quail with a walnut-chili sauce, pimped out with dried garlic and onion (€19); a spellbinding beef tartare wrapped up in XO sauce with pecorino, shallots and dumpling chips (€13); a dizzying mixture of eggplant and Brussels sprouts with a sesame mayonnaise dressing (€12); a surge of vegetarian sushi (€17); and for the finale…nothing, nada, not even a dessert! Much like the menu, the wine list is just as radically short: a Loire Chardonnay from the Domaine de l’Ecu (€8 a glass), an orange wine, Face to Face from Vin Noé (€9), a Jura Aléas from Les Bottes Rouges (€45 a bottle), etc. Plates €5-24. // J.G.