Candelaria (Paris)

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Operated by Quixotic Projects (Les Grands Verres, Hero, Le Mary Céleste), the world’s most trompe-l’œil spot hides a popular Parisian speakeasy, while also serving honorable tacos (crispy breaded shrimp, pickled cabbage, red onions and chipotle mayo or duck confit with mole, sesame seeds and scallions), quesadillas made on homemade tortillas, and good corn chips with frijoles (puréed and spiced black beans) for dipping. So many Mexican treats that are anything but anonymous, which you can wolf down while seated on one of a handful of barstools, before heading through the back door to the secret, dark cocktail lounge, where you can order something like La Guêpe Verte (chili-infused tequila, cucumber, cilantro, agave and lime) or the El Gallo de Oro (mezcal, vermouth, coffee, dry curaçao, cherry liqueur). // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? At the restaurant, there’s an agua fresca of the day (€3), frozen margaritas (€7), Sol beer (€6.50 for 330 ml) or Micheladas (€7.50). Cocktails at the bar (€9-12).

PRICE: Appetizers €5-8, tacos €7-8 for two. Set menu €12.50 (weekday lunch).

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