The flame has recently been (re)ignited at Cantina, version 2.0 of The Asado Club’s former empanaderia, owned by the cosmopolitan duo Sabrina Goldin and Stéphane Abby (who also run Carbón). The space has doubled in volume after engulfing the former caretaker’s lodge, and now accommodates twenty-some diners as they squeeze in between stripped-bare walls, green plants and tiled benches. Fun and fire grace the plates (available in both small and large portions) crafted by pyrotechnic chef Lina Caschetto (ex-Pasdeloup): colorful organic carrots, turnips and homemade focaccia dipped into a smoky white bean hummus (€8); smoked burrata refreshed by blood orange zest, dukkah and big green olives (€13); an exciting pair of homemade blood sausage empanadas (€8); flamboyant smoked scamorza beef burgers with caramelized onions and chimichurri sauce (€13); food porn fries splashed with beetroot ketchup and aioli (€4.50); impressive charred Brussels sprout coleslaw (€4); before a less exciting finale of churros with lemon curd (€8)… To drink: Outland beers (€4.50-7), a Portuguese white wine, Aphros Loureiro (€25 a bottle), or a very lively Gaillac from Laurent Cazottes served in Duralex glasses (€5) or in a penguin pitcher (€19). Plates €4-13. // J.G.