Just like his friends before him (Grébaut, Marchand, Tischenko, etc.), Simon Horwitz gave his restaurant Elmer a little sister: an épicerie/cave à manger that’s in keeping with the zeitgeist (industrial barstools, wooden shelves and mirrors that resemble atelier-style windows), where you can go to fill up your shopping baskets (tuna smoked in-house, Borniambuc butter, La Mortuacienne lemonades, Guilbault jams…) or for a little extra something to eat, either before or after dinner across the street. Obviously, the wines are the stars of the show (Montlouis-sur-Loire L’Appétillant from Jousset for €27; Hanami from the Domaine Bobinet for €24; Syrah from the Ferme des Sept Lunes for €25; Beaujolais Point G from France Gonzalvez for €26…), but the rough-around-the-edges dishes are a true delight as well: Portuguese sardines from Conservas Pinhais served with a horseradish cream and excellent homemade pickles; an incredible taramasalata made over at Elmer; a runny raw milk Neufchâtel cheese; wild charcuterie (Saveurs smoked ham from Franche Comté, Iberian Bellota Maldonado saucisson, Sicilian mortadella with pistachios from Bronte…); and for a sweet finale, a slice of lemon cake with a spoonful of rhubarb jam (€5). Wines by the glass starting at €5. -20% on all bottles of wine taken to go. Plates €5-18. // J.G.