Opened in 2016 by the trio behind the Paris Popup (who now run La Mercerie in Marseille), chefs in residence come and go in the kitchen’s at Chardon, bringing with them a little passing joy… After Lina Caschetto, Mal Meiers and Kate Christensen, Tamir Nahmias or Haan Palcu-Chang, it’s time for Michael West and Jack Coghlan (two Australians who used to work for Ryugin in Japan) to make our taste buds dance. That night on the dance floor, we certainly got our money’s worth (€39): a gentle browned butter and radish tartelette with rice chips, crème fraîche and trout roe, mussel velouté with dill and fennel seeds; lovely asparagus with a hollandaise dipping sauce sprinkled with brioche cooked in garlic butter; an incredible tomato salad over wild rice, quinoa and lentils; before some intoxicating lamb with turnips cooked in whey. And to finish the meal on high note? Coffee granita sprinkled with cacao, hiding a dulce de leche cream and salty pumpkin seeds… Yum! As for the drinks, Fanny Vincent makes the bottle waltz: A Bouche que veux-tu, a VDF from Jean-Christophe Comor in Provence (€5 a glass), Xi-Ro, a biodynamic Greek wine (€7), Petit Jo, a Côtes-du-Rhône (€22 a bottle) or a Bourgogne from Vicent Thomas (€28). Menu €39, à la carte €28-40. // J.G.