Tucked away in the Bibi-Beaurivage neighborhood, Fanny and François Lemarié’s well-dressed bistro (checkered yellow bar, blue checkered walls) keeps locals satisfied with wild drinks and well-crafted eats. The other night, ordered à la carte from the briny selection: smoked trout softened by ricotta and beets; emblematic Nardín smoked anchovies; flamboyant roasted cauliflower with green tahini, worthy of Eyal Shani; plump gnocchi glazed in sage butter; incredible local charcuterie – Txogitxu beef cecina, Christian Parra blood pudding; not to mention the homemade dessert – a perfect lemon meringue tart, perfect for bringing a little funk to your evening. // N.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? François is an original naturophile, providing you with ample choice: Va Te Faire Boire, a fruity Périgord wine from the Château Lestignac (€5.50 a glass); Les Claux, a lively Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine La Roche Buissière (€35 a bottle); a balanced Crozes-Hermitage from Dard et Ribo (€44); Nicot, a vivifying Languedoc white from Le Mas des Agrunelles (€23)…
PRICE: Set menu €16-19 (lunch), dish of the day €13, plates €4-18, rib-eye €52 for two, dessert €7.