Captain Thierry Breton has been blowing the winds of Breton bistronomy around the Saint-Vincent-de-Paul church for over 20 years now. He continues to set sail between his meat-loving joint La Pointe du Grouin, and the dear Casimir, an old-fashioned bistro with cement tiles, garnet-colored benches and the flagship bar. A demonstration with the €30 brunch on Sundays, the buffet supplied straight from the cargo of the ship: salmon and octopus salad under a tempest of herbs; bacon and lentils; whelks; mussels in a cream sauce; well-made omelets; lamb ragout stewed (not long enough) with coriander and mustard… If you need to bring the circulation back to your legs, head over to the sweet buffet for crème caramel, far breton and palet breton… all like grandma used to make. And to wash it all down, push open the door to the affordable and organic wine collection: a white Saumur from Thierry and Lydie Chancelle (€4.50), a Saint-Chinian from the Domaine de La Gabelas (€5.50), a Cabernet franc, Les Débonnaires, from Luc Sébille (€22 a bottle), or a Viognier from Hervé Souhaut (€27 a bottle). Set menus €24-28 (lunch), menu €35 (dinner), brunch €30 (Saturday and Sunday). // N.K.