It’s already been a while since Thierry Breton (Chez Michel, Pointe du Grouin) handed over the reins of his authentic bistro (compass rose tiling, an original zinc bar, gingham tablecloths, Duralex glasses) to his team… On the menu, you’ll find copious market cuisine that’s always cheeky and straightforward. Just take our prix-fixe lunch menu as an example: some pretty decent langoustines with mayonnaise – or sweet and sour mackerel cooked in white wine with grilled onions, zucchini and carrots; brandade with “morue” and croutons (it was actually made with salted cod, a Breton classic), baked in a cast-iron pan and served with mixed greens – or somewhat shy Bresse chicken with chanterelles and new potatoes; and a nice tiramisu to round out the meal. Some other options: veal and coco de Paimpol bean fricassée or slow-roasted wild boar shoulder. Not to mention the gigantic Sunday brunch and its stewed dishes (beef cheeks, etc.) served with an hors-d’oeuvre buffet and infinite desserts, which are always packed with hungry diners. // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Served by the glass (€5.50) – a red Provence from the Domaine des Bastides or a Saumur blanc from Chancelles, honest enough… But the wine list is much more exciting (with almost half of it available as magnums): Chiroubles from Karim Vionnet (€29 a bottle), a rare 2012 Bellet red from the Domaine de Toasc (€46), etc.
PRICE: Menus €24-28 (lunch) and €35 (dinner), brunch €30 (Saturday and Sunday).