Ever since Etienne, the patriarch of the family, stopped running things (who himself had taken over for his Sicilian padre), his figlio Pascal has been carrying on the house’s beloved tradition. Locked in place in the Panier neighborhood since 1943, this Corleone-esque tavern with fuss-free charm (straw-bottomed chairs, walls covered in photographs of old celebrities) is always filled with a familiar crowd who come to devour the emblematic half-and-half pizzas (anchovies and cheese) that are slow-baked in the wood-fired oven, the addictive baby squid pan-fried à la Provençale, and the relentless Simmental prime rib bronzed over the flames and served with potatoes and salad; and an apple tart or caramel flan cooked over the wood fire for dessert. FYI: the house doesn’t accept payment by card. // N.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a short selection of bottles: a red Côteaux-du-Tricastin from the Domaine de Grangeneuve, a white Coteaux-d’Aix from the Château Virant (€20 a bottle)… Prices by the glass are up to the owner’s discretion, a nod to an old tradition.
PRICE: Pizzas €10-20, mains €10-21, desserts €6-7.