Chez la Vieille

Restaurant Chez la Vieille in ParisChez la Vieille (Paris) - © Coline Virly

After revitalizing bistro cuisine at La Bourse et la Vie, Daniel Rose, our “American in Paris,” has set his sights on the legendary ‘60s spot in Les Halles, right across from his restaurant Spring : Chez la Vieille (Adrienne). Where the crème de la crème from back in the day – from Lino Ventura and Jacques Le Divellec to Michou – came to feast on trolleys of hors d’oeuvres and desserts, along with paupiettes and steak with carrots in between…. On October 27th, 2016, we returned and, just like in the good old days, entered through the door that’s also used by residents of the building…. You’ll find the kitchen/concierge desk to the right, the old zinc-topped bar to the left and a studio/dining room with twenty covers upstairs. Where we were handed a rather large menu in the spirit of a bygone era: sardine rillettes, herring with potato salad and artisanal charcuterie from Franche-Comté for the copious appetizers; coquelet à la diable, veal kidneys in a Brive mustard sauce for the main courses. For us? A stunning duck terrine that was tender and flavorful, an homage to la Vieille Dame herself; a blushing veal blanquette, served with basmati rice with almonds and dried apricots; and an explosive Bourbon vanilla custard. To drink, there are some excellent bottles by Chidaine, Rijckaert, Gauthier, Petitprez, Beyer… (€4 to €7 a glass) or Milan (VDF Le Vallon for €35 a bottle). À la carte €27-32. Reservations starting at 6:30pm only. // Gilles Dupuis

Getting there

Restaurant Chez la Vieille
1, rue Bailleul
TEL: +33 1 42 60 15 78
Subway: Louvre - Rivoli