Chez la Vieille
The #1 entertainer for the American crowd, the Yankee-Parisian chef Daniel Rose (ex-Spring, now running La Bourse et la Vie in Paris and Coucou in New York) has taken over the former Vieille Adrienne. Inside this glorious antique bistro, there are two ways to enjoy it – a wine bar on the ground floor and a bourgeois dining room upstairs. Classics from yesteryear are made relevant once again, just take the night we went: a libertine duck terrine curled up with onion confit; punchy celery rémoulade under a mountain of pan-fried whelks; a very simple lentil salad illuminated by crazy good slices of sweet foie gras; supreme herring with oiled potatoes; amazing chuck steak with bone marrow and horseradish; before a crème caramel or rice pudding with pink candied pralines for a sweet finale. // J.G.
FEELING THIRSTY? A wave of small producer wines: a Bourgogne from Contat-Grangé (€11 a glass), an Arbois savagnin from Hugues Beguet (€65 a bottle) or a Côtes Catalanes from the Domaine Riberach (€34).
PRICE: À la carte €42-54.