Chez Lanchois

Best beachside cabana of 2018

Hidden amongst the maze of hangars around the Sète harbor, Josh’s hut attracts a group of new-age Robinson Crusoes at both lunch and dinner. Pantone blinds, a bar made from the hull of a boat, Vietnamese lanterns, vintage chairs and big bay windows giving out onto the Étang de Thau make up the décor of this former boathouse. But it feels a lot like an enchanted cabin: you can play pétanque in the sun, sip a glass of wine with your feet in the water, lounge around in the shade while listening to records, or order one of the worldly plates made by Josh (ex-Méditerranea in Paris). Tested and approved by us: octopus with smoked chili pepper; extremely tender Albacore tuna, cooked Tahitian style and served in thin slices with black vinegar and fresh cilantro; octopus, shrimp and trout donburi, draped in a lemony prawn cream sauce; and don’t forget about the deliciously bitter chocolate and pink peppercorn ganache. To drink, there’s Flying Solo from the Domaine Gayda (€3.50 a glass), white tea with figs from Les Jardins d’Amy (€4) or Ryoma, a rich Japanese rum (€6 a glass). Appetizer-main-dessert lunch set menu for €17.50. Set dinner menus during the week for €22.50. À la carte €27. // R.deC.