In this hotel-restaurant-café-tobacconist’s-newspaper kiosk, Fred, the former boss and famous pescofi (fly fisherman), still casts a large shadow amongst all the fishing rods and reels. But these days, it’s his daughter-in-law Lucile who runs the restaurant while her husband, Jocelyn Burdino, stitches together the good familial grub. The day we went for lunch, under the Art Deco light fixtures of the windowed ceiling, for €17 (main + dessert): perfectly cooked rabbit saddle with kidneys, served with a zucchini brunoise, crushed hazelnuts, a white wine reduction and smooth, stretchy aligot, before a delicious plum coupétade with refreshing vanilla ice cream. Otherwise, seen on the next table over, on the €22 menu: pumpkin and porcini mushroom velouté, plump beef cheeks with truffade, plus faisselle cheese with homemade jam for dessert. There are some nice wines to wash it all down: Pierres Rouges, a Marcillac from the Domaine Laurens (€3.50 a glass), Châteaugay ZigZag from Pierre Goigoux (€20 a bottle) or a Pays-d’Hérault white from the Domaine Jordy (€22). Set menus €17-22 (lunch), €15-19 (dinner), €29 (Sunday lunch). // P.L.