Take a couple of young Parisians – Clément Guillemot and Flora Le Pape – both seasoned chefs at L’Auberge Basque. Set them up in a beautiful 18th-century building with an abandoned hotel-restaurant inside. Shake it all up with some major renovations and you’ll get Choko Ona (“nice spot” in Basque), a cool modern cocoon (Ornamenta ceramics, Alki chairs, tables from Atelier Etienne bois) that seats twenty-some guests. What should you expect? Well-sourced products, highly flavorful cuisine and clean wines displayed in a windowed cellar. The day we went, the €35 menu included: tender white asparagus flash-seared in butter, harmonized with fresh chive goat cheese and an invigorating green curry brioche French toast; a rich suckling lamb prepared two ways, oven-roasted until medium rare and tenderized at a low temperature, with a reduction, garlic cream and grilled baby turnips; before organic milk panna cotta and sorbet with a magical creamy Thai sauce, white bread chips, anise hyssop leaves and verbena blossoms for the heavenly dessert. // Philippe Lafon
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a fruity Côtes-du-Rhône, Cuvée des Galets (€6 a glass); Les Agudes, a white produced by Fabien Jouves in the Lot (€32 a bottle); an Irouléguy rosé from Bordaxuria (€33); or even Mokofin, an apple wine from Bordatto (€32) and Arrobio lager (€6 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus for €25 (lunch), €35 and €45 (4 courses) and €65 (6 courses). Food and wine pairings €15-20-30.