In his little corner of the Marais, Claude Colliot never succumbs to boredom or fashionable trends. His thing? Seasonal ingredients (from fruit and vegetable vendor Didier Pil) that are perfectly paired and carefully served in his extremely sober dining room, and crafted by a chef who has worked privately for everyone from Coppola and Cotillard to Tarantino. The day we went for lunch, there was an incredible balancing act performed on the 4-course carte blanche menu (€62): a handful of raw button mushrooms tossed over a mix of raw veal and citrus cream seasoned with a licorice-infused sauce; an utterly gourmet fillet of monkfish with grilled leeks and fresh walnuts; pink duck breast cooked over hay, sprinkled with enormous peas, toasted hazelnuts, wild garlic and paired with a subtle blackcurrant reduction; and, to finish the meal, a comforting and heady roasted pear with praline ice cream, praline cream and a pomelo compote! And for something nice to drink, there’s a tempting selection served by the glass: Syrah rouge from the Domaine Aurélien Chatagnier, Chardonnay blanc from the Domaine d’En Ségur, or a Touraine vieilles vignes from the Domaine Jacky Preys. Menus €62-79, vegetarian menu €45, à la carte €50-70. Another good deal at lunch: the seasonal omelets (€9-15). // E.P.-V.