In a tiny hallway space that leads to the kitchen, Mister Piège’s Clover Green catapults your old-fashioned, classic bistro into the modern vegetal era. Amongst crates filled with multicolored vegetables and chefs stewing things up in vivo, we opted for the “grand” lunch menu the day we went: a nice chickpea galette over smashed herbs and nân bread (leavened with Greek yogurt); a beautiful farm-fresh egg running over roasted porcini mushrooms with wild pepper, puffed buckwheat and a persillade emulsion; delicious veal bronzed on the plancha alongside vegetables cooked in olive oil; before a zero-calorie millefeuille made with a light cream and dried parsnip crisps in place of the classic puff pastry. Vegetarian menus available. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? Wines with natural temperaments: a Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine des Espiers (€8 a glass), a Lirac red from the Domaine de Marcoux (€50 a bottle), a Chablis from the Domaine Christophe & fils (€62)…
PRICE: Menus €37 (vegetarian), €47 (lunch) and €58-68 (dinner).