After taking over the capital, the Vertigo group – aka Ludovic Dardenay and Julien Fouin (Bonvivant, Goguette, GrandCoeur, Glou) – arrived in Lyon in 2019. More specifically, they set up shop in an old dive in the 4th arrondissement that boasts a geometric bar, Formica tables and faux-leather banquettes, where Massimiliano Monaco (who used to work at Jaja in Paris) stews up cheeky, well-sourced dishes from inside the open kitchen. For us, the night we went: delicious pan-fried chicken liver with braised leeks and a romesco sauce – or some incredible roasted octopus with eggplant caviar and a satay breadcrumb topping; delicious rabbit with mushrooms and polenta that was as white as snow – or guinea hen roulade with wilted spinach and dried apricots; before a sweet fig tartlet with whipped cream and a summer berry coulis – unless you opt for the homemade tiramisu. FYI: the tempting lunch menu inspired by Italian working-class fare is worth exploring as well – eg.: panzanella and ’nduja; braised pork loin with spelt wheat and beans; damson plum tart with walnuts and crushed amaretti… // G.V.
FEELING THIRSTY? Place your trust in Paul Lacroix (ex-Goguette in Paris): a Fronsac from the Château Moulin (€7 a glass), an Italian red from Ferdinando Principiano (€36 a bottle), a Rhone white from the Domaine Vernay (€77)…
PRICE: Menu €16-19 (lunch), à la carte €36-57.
