Beaux-Arts students, gallery owners, editors and backpackers have been lining up at Cosi since 1989. The object of their desire? These beautiful focaccia sandwiches, cooked in a wood-fired oven and prepared with a dozen recipes that never go out of fashion. Take the charming Inès, filled with razor-thin speck and creamy ricotta with walnuts and chives (€7.50), the Bollywoodesque Lanky Mania with curried turkey and sliced apples (€6.50), etc. Or do like we did, and try the Perfide Albion, overflowing with a deliciously juicy roasted onion compote, tomatoes confit and roast beef (€9). For a sweet afterwards, there are excellent cupcakes made by their friend Kate or a tiramisu that’s not overly sweet (€4.50). Even better with some of the wines from La Dernière Goutte: a Chardonnay from the Domaine Félines Jourdan in the Hérault (€3.20 a glass), a red Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine des Amouriers (€4.50), a Peroni beer (€3.50 for 330 ml) or all the usual sodas (€2 for 330 ml). Sandwiches from €6.50 to €9, salads from €7.50 to €10, desserts €4, set menus €10.50 to €13. // R.deC.