This Cuisine has undergone a well-merited change of ownership! Taken over by two talented bistrophiles (chef Takao Inazawa, ex-Verre Volé and Benkay, and oenophile Benoit Simon, ex-Septime and Chateaubriand), this former takeaway shop with a ‘60s marble façade was carefully made over by their friend Federico Masotto (lacquered burgundy melamine, a mirror reflecting the Memphis-style string lights, sound-absorbing foam turned wall décor). Nowadays, the kitchen sends out devilishly good Japanese-inspired dishes and tapas: rich ankimo, a monkfish liver marinated in sake, steamed and then topped with grated daikon radish, plus a dashi broth for dipping; silky suckling veal tataki with tomato sauce and mandolined radish; incredible mackerel ceviche that was barely seasoned with yuzu and sweetened by a perfect sweet potato purée; a spectacular whole fried red mullet – eaten scales and all, with fresh roasted vegetables; before an unusual trembling tofu prepared blancmange style, made from apricot kernels and amaretto, decorated with fresh fig, or a delicious bowl of Mara des Bois strawberries with a fromage blanc granita, meringue and lime. There’s an intriguing lunch menu as well (eg: caponata, deviled egg, lardo di Colonnata; beignets of hake from Saint-Jean-de-Luz; basil ice cream with apricots). // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s everything we love: a Mauzac Gaillacois from Plageoles (€5 a glass), a rosé from les Tètes in Tours (€7.50), a Beaujolais from Balagny (€45 a bottle), a Mondeuse from Le Bugey des Vins de Lavie (€51)…
PRICE: Set menus €18-22(lunch), à la carte €35-42.