At Da Graziella, the magnificent mosaic walls from the 1920s stoically observe the changes made by the string of recent owners: first Pierre Jancou, then David Lanher, and now Arnaud Lacombe, who already owns Vivant, located right next door. But don’t misunderstand us: in this former bird shop, the new star of the show is a wood-fired oven made from Sorrento stone and green marble, where genuine pizzas sizzle, intensified by the best products from Campania. Concocted and served by Graziella (the restaurant’s Neapolitan soul), the pizzas breathe authenticity. The day we went: a beautiful Marinara (€11) made on crispy-soft dough, topped with an insanely delicious passata made with San Marzano tomatoes, garlic from Ufita, oregano from Alburni, and delicious olive oil from the Sorrento Peninsula; or a reinvigorating Arrabiata (€17) with salami from Caserte that heats up the palate. If you’re still hungry, grab some of the fantastic Porc Noir charcuterie, a lively seasonal micro salad, or a one of a kind treat in the form of the Parigi fried pizzas, like the Zucchina with zucchini, mint pesto, ricotta and sea beans (€19). For dessert: unbeatable homemade chocolate and ricotta pizza or a decadent frittella with caramelized apples for a sugary, greasy end to the meal. To drink: biodynamic reds (Quirico 2012, €44 a bottle) and whites (Falaghina 2014, €7.50 a glass), sourced by Erika Biswell (ex-Racines 2). Pizzas €11-19. Charcuterie plates €6 or €12. Salads €4. // O.J.