What a beautiful spot Daroco is! Supported by majestic concrete columns and solid stone walls, dressed in light terrazzo and blue velvet, and topped with a huge mirrored ceiling for narcissists with stiff necks, the flamboyant restaurant from Julien Ross and Alexandre Giesbert (Zebra, Perruche) has quickly become the new temple to Parisian hype. On the menu, place your trust in the oven spitting out stunning pizzas, like the Napoli (anchovies from Cetara, a profusion of cherry tomatoes and olives, €15) or the Parma Show (buffalo mozzarella, Parma ham, basil, €16.50) over the rest of the cuisine, which is fine but not outstanding: ricotta, pea and broad bean salad that was lacking a little crunch (€13); an eruptive burrata with eggplant caviar (€12); gnocchi with sautéed broccoli, ’nduja and black olives (€21); red mullet fillet with borlotti beans, pan-fried foie gras and lime zest (€34); traditional Italian desserts – tiramisu and sabayon (€9). To drink, a few kicks from the Boot: Montepulciano, La Valentina (€6 a glass), Negroamaro from Puglia (€28), etc. Pizzas €12-18, à la carte €30-55. // A.A.