Restaurant David Toutain
David Toutain, Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 Best gastronaut
David Toutain gives the Left Bank’s old-fashioned manners a good slap at this stylish multi-story wood cabin (concrete floors, firewood walls, organic earthenware). Straight out of the ex-Agapé Substance chef’s nourishing forge, the Pensée menu (€90) unveils harmonious flavors in a dimly-lit space: the iconic salsify branch dipped into a snowy parsnip and white chocolate mousse; a gem of jellified oyster shaped into a cylinder with raspberry notes; graceful green cabbage with lardo di Colonnata and a Douglas fir broth; orgasmic lobster in a moussey bisque with fresh grapefruit and lobster meat roasted with juniper; cheeky monkfish in brown butter, with walnut praline and charred porcini; intense smoked eel bathing in black sesame and diced green apple; clever lamb from the Pyrenees, playing in a field of carrots and mustard greens; before making the final shot with a blackcurrant sorbet with basil mousse and blackcurrant clafoutis made using grandma Toutain’s recipe. Also seen balancing on the servers arms: whole roasted pigeons served on their fragrant coals, focaccia topped with a pine cream over a bed of herbs… // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a bourgeois and faubourgeois wine collection: a Saint-Pourçain white from the Domaine des Bérioles (€14 a glass), a spicy Terrasses-du-Larzac from the Mas Jullien (€16), L d’Ange, a Pouilly-Fumé from Alexandre Bain (€120 a bottle), a Côtes-du-Rhône white from the Domaine Jamet (€100), or even a Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2000 at €1,400…
PRICE: Menus €70 to €250 (lunch), €70 and €250 (dinner), food and wine pairings +€60-150.