restaurant

Restaurant David Toutain

Restaurant David Toutain (Paris)

© Yves Nespoulous

  • Date
  • share

Inside this beautiful two-story restaurant (hardwood floors, taupe grey walls, Kristalia and Elephant chairs), you’ll find David Toutain behind the windowed kitchen, whipping up modernist plates with a quasi-Japanese purity that sure stimulate the senses. The day we went for lunch, the virtuoso with an incredible résumé (Arpège, Ambroisie, Mugaritz, Agapé Substance) unveiled his Mélisse tasting menu (€90) in 10 masterful courses: a sweet clover fritter to dip in a cream of parsnip/white chocolate/home-distilled sweet clover oil (a flower with a honey-like flavor); graceful red pepper tuiles hiding red orache that’ll have you blushing with pleasure; a delightful oyster and shallot cream topped with a delicate raspberry ribbon; raw cuttlefish sliced extra thin, swimming in a lovely verbena, zucchini and lemon concentrate; cheeky chanterelles electrified by a lovage emulsion; orgasmic porcini mushroom sorbet with a walnut and fried chicken skin crumble, and a light lovage mousse covering an intense porcini mushroom cream; pearly monkfish fillet floating on a memorable chicken jus infused with savagnin, served with fresh walnuts and celery; two cubes of smoked eel over a black sesame cream and tangy, raw, julienned green apple; glorious mallard duck breast (presented whole before being carved at the table) intensified by a whelk jus de cuisson and charred cucumber; before the undeniably good cauliflower, coconut and white chocolate mousse served with an explosively flavorful honey-streaked corn puff. Stunning! // T.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? 700 references that crisscross France under the watchful eye of Suzanne Cochran (ex-Peninsula and Crillon), who has a tendency to choose natural wines: Hocus Pocus, a Marseille white from Fabienne and Lukas Völlmy (€15 a glass), a Loire red from Le Clau de Nell (€70 a bottle), a Condrieu from the Domaine François Dumas (€150), a 2013 Alsace Riesling grand cru Pfsingstberg from the Domaine Valentin Zusslin (€135), Cornaline, a 2013 Baux-de-Provence red from Dominique Hauvette (€90)…

PRICE: Tasting menus €90-250 (lunch), €170-250 (dinner), food and wine pairings +€60-150.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
I WANT IT!

About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.