De Sel et d’Ardoise
In this bistro with French school vibes (wooden chairs neatly lined up, an old scholastic map hanging on the wall), Maxime Voisin (ex-Arpège and Gare au Gorille in Paris) hands out gourmet lessons prepared with locally sourced ingredients: vegetables from Gérald Céleste in Férolles, beef and poultry from Philippe Le Grelle in Ouzouer-sur-Loire… The day we went for lunch, his exemplary menu featured: smoked catfish hiding in a sunny corn and yellow pepper gazpacho – or an ultra-violet beetroot tartare with feta and shiso leaves; delightful duck breast with a reduction, plus slow-roasted tomatoes and artichokes – or a lively hake from Loctudy with creamed potatoes and an incredible onion stuffed with eggplant; before a sublime roasted apricot served with lavender ice cream. // G.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? Place your trust in Claire, Maxime’s partner: a Ventoux white from the Domaine de la Combe au Mas (€6 a glass), a Saumur red from Thibault Stephan (€30 a bottle), an Angevin white from the Domaine Les Grandes Vignes (€42)…
PRICE: Menus €24-27 (lunch) and €34-37 (dinner).