De Sel et d’Ardoise
Who’s in the kitchen? Maxime Voisin, who used to work at Arpège and Saturne. And in the dining room with the wines and the desserts? His partner, Claire, who used to work at Tour d’Argent. It was a marriage of love and convenience that produced this dapper 20-seater bistro (wooden furniture, a school map on the wall, bouquets of herbs and flowers…). The other day at lunch we had: a refreshing zucchini gazpacho with burrata, mint and pink lentil croquettes; a stunning little tunny tartare with cherries, fresh almonds and snow peas; plump pork belly with haricots verts, beets and caseilles (a cross between a blackcurrant and redcurrant); beautiful roasted whiting with an elderberry emulsion and spinach spaghetti; before a few strawberries in a Sologne honey and Argentine gin mousse, with goat’s milk faisselle cheese, lemon cream and a geranium oil madeleine. // I.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? A Costières-de-Nîmes white from the Château Mourgues du Grès (€6 a glass), a Cheverny white from Philippe Tessier (€27 a bottle) or organic local Solstice hard cider (€17).
PRICE: Menu €23-26 (lunch), à la carte €38-47.