Le Guide Fooding’s Best Restaurant of 2016
In their savagely stripped walls, chef Taku Sekine and mixologist Amaury Guyot play telepathic matchmakers every night by marrying neo-Asian plates with spellbinding cocktails. The night we went, seated at the bar for the five-course menu (€95), after a kaffir lime and brown butter bouillon for the titillating amuse-bouche: a flavor bomb of pollack, mackerel and mini mussel ceviche with creamy corn and Russian tarragon, paired with a syrupy drink mixing juniper, vermouth, amaro, yellow peach and thyme; languorous Albacore tuna perfectly seasoned with a tomatillo salsa, pickled mustard seeds and onions, served with a fatal shot combining vodka, fino sherry, cilantro and grapefruit; stunning flash-seared monkfish with squid ink and butter beans, paired with a divine mix of gin, sake, pear and basil; a juicy grilled pigeon with crisp zucchini, a red wine sauce and summer purslane, sublimed by a combo of shochu, sake, oloroso sherry, sesame oil and an orange reduction; and to end the meal, delicate fig tempura with a red bean sauce, milk ice cream, fromage blanc granita and purple shiso, escorted by a successful mix of aquavit, umeshu, orgeat and verbena. // A.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to the flourishing cocktails, there are two natural wines served by the glass – including the Arbalète et Coquelicots Minervois from Jean-Baptiste Senat – and a beautiful unfiltered lager from Sorachi Ace (€11 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Menus (food and cocktail pairings included) €95, €115 and €135; plates €6-25 (Saturday) and brunch served à la carte on Sunday (mains €15-25, sides €5-8).