As a compulsive globe-trotter, antique collector and now restaurateur, Stéphanie de Saint-Simon sure carves out her own path, one that’s more traditional and street food-oriented than her other spot, MG Road in the 3rd arrondissement, with its sophisticated décor and more contemporary cuisine. Get things started with grilled paneer (four small cubes of grilled cheese in a mint sauce, sprinkled with sprouts, €10); then carry on with one of six thali (an assortment of small plates in a copper bowl), such as the prawn thali with lentil dal, seasoned rice, prawn curry, carrot curry, cucumber raita, a light tea pudding and a naan (€34). They’ve got excellent Indian coffee from Maison Araku. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a well-oiled drink selection: Les Arbousiers 2016, a Côtes-du-Rhône white from the Domaine de la Réméjeanne (€6.50 a glass); L’Appel des Sereines 2016, a red from François Villard (€7.50); Les Narvaux 2015, a Meursault from the Domaine Girardin (€67); and Bassenon 2016, a Côte-Rôtie from Yves Cuilleron (€69). Plus, La Parisienne beers (€6-7), liquors from the sub-continent (gin from Sri Lanka, Indian rums and whiskeys, €10-22 for 50 ml), lassis (€6), and a dozen teas from the Maison Mittal Tea House (€4.50).
PRICE: Weekday prix-fixe lunch menu €15-22. Thali €24-52. À la carte €41-77.