Restaurant Détour in ParisDétour (Paris) - © Détour

Tucked away in an alley of the Nouvelle-Athènes neighborhood, you could easily walk right past this tiny spot, with its discreet slate grey façade and aloof staff…. A gracious space with embroidered bistro chairs, where everything rides on the talented chef, Adrien Cachot (ex-Troquet, Petit Pan and Saint-James in Bouliac, during the Nicolas Maggie period). The other day at lunch, on the €28 menu: marinated beef heart (the actual heart, not the tomato!) cut into thin quasi-raw slices, crisp radishes, the sweetness of sour cream and spicy harissa; then a harmonious and flavorful cod filet with white asparagus, moistened by a light soubise and a mussel emulsion, sprinkled with charred onion powder; before an original dessert made up of avocado and cilantro mousses, with a cocoa crisp. The wine list is modest, compared to the space, but we managed to find a thunderous Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh from Caubet (€7 a glass), or a Morgon Côte-du-Py from Foillard (€47 a bottle). Set menu options (lunch) €22 and €28, dinner menus €32 and €45. // Gilles Dupuis

Getting there

Restaurant Détour
15, rue de la Tour-des-Dames
TEL: +33 1 45 26 21 48
Subway: Trinité