Best bar à délices of 2018
Arnaud Lacombe and Pierre Touitou are doubling down! Located just two storefronts away from Vivant our new favorite Parisian culinary fancies (Le Guide Fooding’s Crush of 2018) are putting their Déviant spin on things. With a bar that opens out directly onto the sidewalk, and not a table nor chair in sight, this anonymous façade houses an open kitchen where they put on quite a show. Simply stand shoulder-to-shoulder at the white marble bar, and snack on some incredible, finger-licking good treats. The night we went, scribbled out in marker across the mirrors: glistening chicken wings in an explosively flavorful tamarind-ginger-galangal marinade (€9); haddock accras (a little too hearty) with a silky yogurt dipping sauce (€12); mussels from Groix in a green peppercorn and celery broth (€9); shredded carrots drenched in browned butter and intensified by pomelo pulp (€5)… And to warm you up, body and soul, there are roughly 60 naturally deviant wines to choose from, including La Grande Chaude, a buttery white from Chatillon (€62); Dolia Ambré, a sunny orange from Viret (€11 a glass); or Hanami, a red that goes down easy from Bobinet (€26)… // G.LeP.