What’s the star of the house? An immense 18-seater table topped with a thick green slab of Amazonia marble, plus laidback house music vibes selected by Pierre Letard (ex-Origine and Ze Kitchen Galerie in Paris), who completes the scene with his balanced plates. The Saturday we went for lunch, served à la carte from his one-room-kitchen: delicate sardine fillets simply marinated with preserved citrus (lemon and lime) and paired with pickled onion; a beautiful coalfish steak, filleted and cooked to golden perfection in brown butter, plus little dots of lemony jelly that were somewhat unnecessary, beurre blanc and punchy pork-stuffed cabbage rolls; before a peach and grenadine compote with vanilla ice cream and a chocolate crumble for dessert. During the week, there’s a lunchtime set menu featuring, for example, a goat cheese and tomato éclair, roasted free-range chicken thigh with muesli and quinoa, and a fontainebleau with raspberry coulis for dessert. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Nothing extravagant: a biodynamic Cévennes red from Le Mas d’Espanet (€7 a glass), a Côtes-de-Gascogne white from the Domaine Chiroulet (€30 a bottle), a Languedoc red from Louis François (€27), etc.
PRICE: Menus €21 (weekday lunch), à la carte €30-44.