Best restaurant of 2018
This restaurant sitting on the outskirts takes nature literally, just like the slogan “wind, water, fire, earth” from skate brand Elements. In its natural setting (artsy skateboards nailed to the walls, an open kitchen with no frills), the adventurous Anthony Orjollet performs unbelievable tricks for the most hardcore locavorists. The other night at dinner: a languorous octopus salad topped with radish and peanuts, barely braised asparagus and condiments (€11) – or a striking lactose, gluten and sugar free kimchi (€6); a Kriaxera duck trio (all parts of the duck are good!) with broad beans and peanuts (€22) – or marbled sea bream caught at dawn and cooked gently on the teppanyaki, paired with asparagus and crushed almonds (€17); before pecan ice cream cushioned by pistachio-coconut dacquoise and cream for the fatal finale (€8)! To drink, grab one of the bottles prescribed by Benoît Berthail, a friend who wishes you well: a dry Jurançon from the Château Laffite (€6 a glass), Cortado, a cheeky Côtes-Catalanes from the Domaine de Majas (€18 a bottle), a vermillion natural Navarra Aristu (€25), an Irouléguy from Bordaxiura (€19), etc. À la carte €23-34. // N.K.