Elements

Le Guide Fooding’s Best Restaurant of 2018

Anthony Orjollet continues to shine a spotlight on the local terroir from his somewhat clandestine restaurant (wood banquettes, lots of wine, painted skateboards hung on the wall, views of the parking lot) bordering a by-road. The day we went for lunch, the punkest of chefs once again rocked our socks off: an Eric Ospital Basque pork terrine served with homemade pickles; reinvigorating heirloom tomato and watermelon salad sprinkled with black olives; emblematic taloa (a corn galette) topped with slow-roasted Ibaiama pork, plus carrots and cabbage marinated in fermented chili; curative eggplant braised with za’atar and lots of pomegranate seeds; a precious braised Pirenaica veal medallion paired with charred carrots; before the fiery dessert, a smoking hot plum over a bed of rice pudding sprinkled with dukkah and pistachios. At night, there’s a carte blanche menu that might feature something like baked apple, chestnuts and cheese with bone marrow; braised octopus with chili paste; Kriaxera duck prepared three ways, with smoked carrots and fermented cashews… // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Let yourself be guided by Benoit Berthail and his living wines: a dry Jurançon from Antoine Arraou (€39 a liter, €6 a glass), an Hérault Grenache from Stéphanie Ponçon and Frédéric Porro (€29 a bottle), a Loire Chenin from Benoit Blet (€35)…

PRICE: Plates €6-24 (lunch), carte blanche menu €49 (dinner).