Working in cahoots with his big brother across the street (Elmer), Simon Horwitz’s blue-toned wine cellar is boosted by precious comestibles which keep local appetites satisfied, starting at noon with well-filled baguettes. Unsheathed at lunch the last time we went, a super sub filled with roast beef, mozzarella and homemade cornichons – also served at night on a platter surrounded by barely pink taramasalata (a sign of quality), burrata sprinkled with hazelnuts, and well-made tuna tataki rillettes… And for a little something sweet, there are Maras des Bois strawberries with an avalanche of whipped cream. // N.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a moving selection by Sébastien Perrot, the sommelier from next door: a lively organic rioja from the Domaine Vina Illusion from Martin Alonso (€8 a glass), an anti-heatwave biodynamic Viognier and Roussanne blend from La Ferme des Sept Lunes (€34 a bottle).
PRICE: Sandwiches €7-9 (lunch), plates €6-14 (dinner).