Large and small checkered gingham tablecloths, views of both the park and the windowed kitchen, a terrace under the arches…. After stints at L’Ami Jean and La Colline du Colombier, Ugo Déglon has been pampering his menu stuffed full of very local ingredients (with the exception of the fish and beef) for 7 years now: delicious porcini mushroom velouté, tender free-range beef cheeks from the Auvergne over a bed of mashed patidou squash, and to finish, a copious and gourmet fromage blanc from the Cérilly farm, paired with a diabolical blackberry/rhubarb jam. There’s a fine selection of wines to go with it all: Menetou-Salon from the Domaine La Clef du Récit (€4.50 a glass), Saint-Pourçais blanc from the Domaine des Bérioles (€22), a red Côte Roannaise from the Domaine Sérol (€25), craft beer from the regional Sornin brewery (€5). On Sundays, they serve brunch (€22). À la carte €29-36.50. // D.C.