Empreinte (Vannes)

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The Fourniers (who previously owned Auberge du Presbytère before it became Äponem) have sure left their mark, or empreinte, on the center of the medieval town of Vannes. Marine used her talent for interior design (English wallpaper, 1950s chairs, black terrazzo tables) to set the stage for the flamboyant, locavore dishes prepared by Baptiste – who used to work for the Maison Bras. The other night, the €50 chef’s menu featured: a miraculous amuse-bouche of flame-charred mackerel with blackberries, faisselle cheese and mushrooms; a salad of spider crab, haricots verts, gomasio, herbs and agastache that would capsize a schooner; an imperial gilt-head bream from Séné with risotto and caponata; excellent Le Ségala veal paired with spinach and pear; excellent cheeses from the covered marketplace; before a devilishly good chocolate ganache with crème anglaise, buckwheat and forest fruits. // M.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Heed Marine’s advice: Les Canilles, a Languedoc Clairette from the Domaine Ribiera (€5 a glass), a Roussillon Grenache from the Domaine Recerca (€39 a bottle), Per Ei, a Côtes-du-Rhône white from the Domaine Saladin (€40)….

PRICE: Menus €25-35 (lunch), €40-50 (dinner).

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