Fabien Lombardi has put three offensive linemen into play on Rue de Rochechouart! This former staffer at L’Entrée des Artistes decided to double down on his offensive strategy by placing a pizzeria, a salumeria and an osteria at the forefront of the Faggio Food Team. His star quarterback? This osteria that’s less and less Italo-centric (mosaic tile floors, brick walls, an emerald green tile bar), where chef Masaaki Yamamoto (ex-Vivant Cave) scored touchdown after touchdown the other night: risotto with an arugula cream and grated bottarga; a clever Albacore tuna steak served under avocado and cucumber doused in a light vinaigrette; a skillfully prepared Iberian pluma with quartered apricots, haricots verts and purslane in jus de cuisson; before a pistachio and summer berry pavlova with limoncello in overtime. Final score: Faggio 4, Boredom 0. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are some very good players in the reserves: an Aude Grenache from the Domaine Fond Cyprès (€6 a glass), Corvée Sous Curon, a Jura Chardonnay from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€52 a bottle), a Burgundy Pinot noir from Frédéric Cossard (€75)…
PRICE: Plates €12-30.
