Faggio Osteria

Fabien Lombardi has put three offensive linemen into play on Rue de Rochechouart! This former staffer at L’Entrée des Artistes decided to double down on his offensive strategy by placing a pizzeria, a salumeria and an osteria at the forefront of the Faggio Food Team. His star quarterback? This osteria that’s less and less Italo-centric (mosaic tile floors, brick walls, an emerald green tile bar), where chef Masaaki Yamamoto (ex-Vivant Cave) scored touchdown after touchdown the other night: risotto with an arugula cream and grated bottarga; a clever Albacore tuna steak served under avocado and cucumber doused in a light vinaigrette; a skillfully prepared Iberian pluma with quartered apricots, haricots verts and purslane in jus de cuisson; before a pistachio and summer berry pavlova with limoncello in overtime. Final score: Faggio 4, Boredom 0. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are some very good players in the reserves: an Aude Grenache from the Domaine Fond Cyprès (€6 a glass), Corvée Sous Curon, a Jura Chardonnay from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€52 a bottle), a Burgundy Pinot noir from Frédéric Cossard (€75)…

PRICE: Plates €12-30.